If New York has Chinatown and Little Italy, then Istanbul has "French Street" (Fransız Sokağı). "Rue Française", with tented buildings, street musicians, cafés, bars and art centers, opened in summer of 2004.

The street behind Galatasaray High School known as Cezayir (Algeria) Street was completely renovated from head to toe by a group lead by Mehmet Taşdiken within the scope of a two-year project. The buildings and sidewalks were improved and a special music system was established. Taşdiken had close contacts with the Municipality of Paris, so the stones of the street were arranged by Parisian architects, and 100-year-old coal-gas street lamps from the Municipality of Paris were installed.

Mehmet Taşdiken says "the French have a very important legacy in Beyoğlu. Most of the establishments of Beyoğlu, such as the first cafés and first movie theaters, were established by the French in the 19th century and the buildings on the left of Cezayir Street bear the signature of French engineer-contractor Marius Michel, who lived in Istanbul between 1890 and 1910 and built the Karaköy and Eminönü docks."

Fransız Sokağı has a covered area of 9,000 square meters and a capacity of 3000 people together with the open-air areas. The number of daily visitors is around 6.500. The heaters on the streets allow the open areas to be used even on cold days.

Neighborhood: Istanbul’s Beyoglu (Bay-oh-loo) & French Street

By Stacie Leone

Beyoglu is without a doubt the place to measure the pulse of Istanbul. With its cacophonous sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and sometimes even feelings, Beyoglu is the place to see and be seen. Though seemingly impossible to describe, the area from Taksim to Galatasaray Lisesi (High School), plus “French Street” (Fransiz Sokagi) is the subject of our current sojourn.

In order to explore the area, the Metro is the best way to arrive. When exiting the Metro in Taksim, you will find the five-star Marmara Hotel just to your left, the Atatürk Kültür Merkezi (Cultural Center) to the back of you although your view of the Center is currently obstructed by a huge construction site where a metro connection from Taksim to Kabataş is being built. Atatürk Kültür Merkezi is Istanbul\'s main concert hall. The Istanbul State Symphony performs here from October through May, and ballet and dance companies do shows year-round.

Before starting down Istiklal, we recommend a stop at the swanky Gezi Istanbul Cafe, where a coffee and a piece of cake from their excellent patisserie are well worth a visit.

Returning to the Metro exit, straight ahead you will find Taksim Square. Walking towards it, you will see the statue of Atatürk (founder of the Turkish Republic) that sits in the middle. More importantly, you will see a plethora of people sitting around the statue, smoking, drinking cola, chatting, or eating a simit (bagel-like bread).  Merely glancing around the square brings insight into how much globalization has changed Turkey in this, the heartland of Istanbul.  Internet cafes, television screens, jewelry shops, American and Turkish fast food restaurants, are just some of the sights to take in. 

This is the start of Istiklal Caddesi, the main thoroughfare that is (usually) off-limits to cars and only open to pedestrians. For those with tired feet, a historic and charming tram runs the length of Istiklal from Taksim to Tunel.  (Although out of service as we went to press, the tram will reopen once construction on Istiklal is completed.) Besides a plethora of retail stores and cafes, the street is home to consulates of several nations including France, Greece, Sweden, Armenia, and Russia.

During the reign of the Ottoman Empire, the street was called Cadde-i Kebir (Grand Avenue) and became a center for European foreigners, Levantines (who referred to the Avenue as Grande Rue de Pera), Ottoman intellectuals and western culture admirers during the reforms in the 19th century. When 19th century travelers referred to Constantinople (today, Istanbul) as The Paris of the East, they were thinking of the Grande Rue de Pera (Istiklal Caddesi) and its half-European, half-Asian culture. With the declaration of the Republic in October 29, 1923, the street\'s name was changed to Istiklal, meaning "independence", to commemorate the triumphal Turkish War of Independence.

As you approach Istiklal you will notice off to the left the striking and impressive structure of the ancient Greek Orthodox Church, also known as Aya Triada (Church of the Holy Trinity), rising in the background, girded by Burger King and a series of kebab joints.

Aya Triada, the largest Eastern Orthodox church in Istanbul, was completed in 1882 and is still in use. The walls of this lovely sanctuary are lined with delicate icons, the ceiling painted with colorful frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible.

This seemingly strange juxtaposition of old and new is nothing strange to Istanbulites, who are quite used to the hybridization of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Western cultural influences in the city. As you scan your eyes across the landscape, notice the incredibly popular döner (kebab) stands. These aren’t just after-hour haunts for drinkers and partiers, but also a culinary solution to the busy worker or professional. The food tends to be good, if not for the fact that there is so much turnover from eaters.  One particular döner restaurant there is Bambi, famous among club kids, celebrities and ordinary folk.  The street with traffic is called Siraselviler Caddesi which takes you to Cihangir, a popular residential neighborhood among expatriates and young Turks. If you follow Siraselviler and make a right after the İlk Yardim Hospital you’ll find yourself Çukurcuma, an old and newly trendy area of town known for its antique and second hand shops as well as funky new boutique clothing shops.  Across the street from the döner joints is the 4-star Savoy Hotel.

After a döner sandwich (chicken or beef), head down Istiklal Street. The pedestrian street -- which is divided by the historic tramway for those with achy feet -- continues down to the neighborhood of Tünel and is the heart of modern Beyoglu.  As you start walking, you will be struck by ceaseless bird song emanating from the French Consulate situated on your right. The French Consulate also houses a cultural center that offers classes, art shows, and film showings. Your eyes will not stay on the French Cultural Center for long however because of the series of colorful shops that stretches as far as the eye can see.  Beyoglu is essentially a shopper’s paradise, no matter what your particular shopping stripe might be. Opposite the French Consulate are a slew of multinational chain stores. A number of money exchange places are located here as well, although it is well advised to keep a close eye (and hand) on your personal belongings while strolling.  Haci Baba, one of the oldest restaurants in Istanbul, famous for its kebabs, is located just on your left.  Right after the French Consulate, on the right, is a recently opened cafe called IST, which serves pasta, burgers, salads, and desserts. Take the next right, onto Zambak Street, just before the trendy and always interesting Akbank Sanat Galerisi (Art Gallery), where you’ll find the Ahenk boutique, providing luxurious, monogrammed men’s shirts and accessories.  Right after that is Fado Irish Bar and Grill, a retro-style Irish bar that features live music on weekends.  After passing Fado, make a right on Ana Çeşme Sokak to find the Japanese Culture and Information Center on your immediate left. Here you cannot only learn Japanese, but taste it as well. The cafe serves sushi, accompanied by live Japanese music. Cross back over Zambak Sokak and walk down the other end of Ana Çeşme Sokak (you are now parallel to Istiklal Caddesi) to find two popular vegetarian restaurants.  Frequented by expats and Turks alike, Zencefil offers an airy, cosmopolitan atmosphere and frequently changing menu of simple vegetable-based fare.  A bit further down the street is Parsifal.  In business for eight years, it’s a cozy, family-run place serving home-cooked vegetarian, vegan and a few chicken dishes to its loyal clientele. 

Walk back to Zambak Sokak and cross to the other side of Istiklal.  There you will see the unassuming but lovely boutique Triada Residence Apart Hotel on the right and the entrance to Aya Triada on the left.  Opposite to the churchyard is the bar/cafe Dulcinea.  Named for Don Quixote’s imagined beloved, the bar features elaborate drinks, provides a boatload of atmosphere and, once in a while, art shows and concerts. Next door to Dulcinea is Tuta, a pastry shop & cafe whose pastries taste as delicious as they appear and whose owners luckily put as much time into décor as into their baked goodies.

Heading back down to Istiklal, it’s impossible to miss the huge Fitaş movie theater sign, a cinema house which mainly caters to Hollywood-hungry crowds. The building also houses the North Shield Irish Bar and Pub as well as a deafeningly loud CD store.

Turn left and continue along Istiklal.  A bit further along is Simit Dünyasi, the brainchild of young, American-educated Turkish entrepreneurs, which serves traditional Turkish breakfast fare of simit with cheese, olives, jelly, and other goodies, all with a fast food mentality. You’re now in the thick of things, where cheap lingerie stores compete with noisy music shops and street hawkers, many of whom are Beyoglu institutions, such as the blind man selling newspapers, or the droopy mustachioed man who is hunched over as a result of the numerous beads he is selling.  Just to remind you however, of the truly commercialized nature of the neighborhood, there stands to your left the imposing façade of the Adidas store.  On the same side of the street, just before reaching McDonalds, make a left onto a small street, aptly named Küçükparmakkapi (Small Finger Door) Sokak, which is lined with cozy tea houses wherein you can smoke nargile (the flavored tobacco smoked through a hooka or water pipe), sip tea, and watch the world pass hurriedly by.

After returning to Istiklal, take an immediate left after McDonalds and walk up the street named Büyükparmakkapi (Large Finger Door) Sokak.  Hidden among the Türkü music bars, reggae dance clubs, the famous live music venue Hayal Kahvesi and various restaurants is Pandora Book Store. Pandora is a lovely place housing a wide array of English and Turkish books and a huge selection of travel guides. Also check out Pen Cafe, a cozy retreat filled with the sound of classical music and grandma’s ultra comfy antique furniture.  The Galatasaray Football Team Fan Club is on the left and Nizam Pide Salonu on the right serves işkembe (tripe soup), delicious kuru fasulye (cooked beans), pide (Turkish pizza), and other food into the wee hours of the morning for the après nightclub crowd.  Make a right off this street where you’ll find a number of second hand and antique book shops carrying mostly Turkish titles, old copies of magazines, and some seriously dusty records, though many are potentially good finds.

 “Little America” abounds in a big way on Istiklal but then there’s Mavi Jeans, Turkey’s answer to Levi’s.  The M&N Brasserie on the right is a stylish little cafe with cushy benches and a faintly Parisian air. The bar menu includes items like “Sex on the Beach” and Melba cocktails for around 10 YTL each. Heading back out to Istiklal, check out the flagship seven-story Vakko department store, at which well-heeled Istanbulites have been shopping since 1934. Vakko has several more branches throughout Istanbul. Just before Polo Garage on the right hand side of the street, make a right onto Imam Adnan Sokak, where you’ll find the Yeşilçam cinema.  Yeşilçam is the name given to the Turkish movie industry, one with a past as illustrious if not as prolific as “Bollywood”.  Beyoglu was the center of that industry.  Passing all the cafes and restaurants and walking to the end of this street will bring you to Bi Buçuk, where you can find the best American-style buffalo wings in Istanbul, ideally consumed with ice cold beer. 

Returning to Istiklal and Vakko, look next door to Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, specializing in “Turkish Delights” (lokum) and akide şekeri (different flavors of homemade hard candy) and in business since 1777.  D&R, a music and book store, which carries some English language books, magazines, and a good selection of popular music CDs is next door.  On the right, behind the man offering his scale to weigh you is Hüseyin Aga Cami, the only mosque located on Istiklal Caddesi.  It was built on the grounds of a Byzantine church in 1597 by Haci Hüseyin Aga, a prominent vineyard owner and superintendent of the Ottoman Naval Arsenal.

Make a right directly after passing the mosque and to your left you will find Aga Restaurant, open since 1920. Aside from the Ottoman cuisine, the restaurant is also well known for its composted artichokes, erik (plums), cherries, and many other treats. The Aga menu is mostly derived from the Kastamonu region of Turkey. Customers’ favorite dishes include Imam Bayildi (loosely translated “The imam has fainted” - an olive oil eggplant dish).  On the same street a few doors down is Haci Abdullah Lokantasi, another famous traditional restaurant, established in 1988.

Back on Istiklal, is a doorway flanked by two goddess-like statues which invite you into Alkazar Movie Theater, an art house cinema house. On the same side of the street a little further down, you will see the Garanti Gallery. Garanti Bankasi is one of many banks in Turkey that are patrons of the arts. This phenomenon is widespread and welcome in a country where public art funding is not a priority. 

Cross Istiklal and make a right down the next side street where you’ll find Sine Pop and Emek Cinemas. Sine Pop is one of the better deals in town, seeing as the ticket prices are quite cheap. Go to Emek however, for the experience. Housing an exquisite theater with an enormously high ceiling and large balcony, Emek has been and continues to be a prioritized destination among Turkey’s film festival-going cinephiles.  Going back up to Istiklal and crossing the street, you will find the Cine Majestic, a new theater with a couple of small screens that show popular Turkish and American films, while Rüya (Dream) Sinemasi across the street caters to the dreams of the strictly “Adult” cinemagoer.

Crossing the street yet again you will find Gutan shoe store, a great place to hunt down cheap and comfortable shoes. Before reaching Atlas Pasaji on your left however, you will see a side street going off to the left. If you take that street up until it ends you will see Yeni Melek Gosteri Merkezi (Performance Center), located on Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sokak. Unassuming from the outside, this 400 meter square, 1160-seat capacity space was, from the mid 1950s until the early 1980s, one of the premiere cinemas hosting huge Turkish and American film epics. It was restored and reopened to the public in the autumn of 2003. It now hosts concerts, film screenings, and other performances.

Return to Istiklal and you will see Atlas Pasaji (passageway) on your left.  Beyoglu is nothing without its numerous passageways. This particular one has seen an immense transformation over the years. The bars, theater, and movie house located inside have all undergone facelifts, while its youthful clothing shops have increased in popularity as a retro fashion sense has also gained favor among the newly wealthy. Across the street from Atlas Pasaji is Halep Pasaji, also containing the Beyoglu Cinema and the permanent theater of the famous comedic actor Ferhan Şensoy. Halep contains jewelry shops, CD shops, and t-shirt stores. On its second floor, you can find a laid back cafe called Cafe Krepen. 
 
Continuing further along down Istiklal, you will find on your right the famous Çiçek Pasaji. Undoubtedly Çiçek Pasaji is a must-see, mainly for its resplendent golden trimmed ceilings and French nouveau feel as well as its many fish restaurants.  For an atmosphere that’s sometimes chaotic, often boisterous and always exciting, head past Çiçek Pasaji and turn right immediately after into the Balik Pazari (Fish Market). Kokoreç (roasted sheep’s intestines) sellers abound; act now, because under upcoming EU integration laws, kokoreç will officially be a no-no –As you wander through the fish market, you might find that your head is swimming with sensual onslaught of fish smells, gag gift operators, sizzling kokoreç and faux leather shoes curiously positioned amidst sellers of fine caviar. To your right you will find the famous Nevizade passage. Once you turn onto the street, you can do one of two things here, depending on whether you choose right or left. If you choose left, you can spend your night chatting with friends and drinking cheap beer. Choosing right entails a pricier chat over meze (appetizers), raki, and fish. The trick here is getting to know the owner of a restaurant in order to guarantee a seat on the outside, in the midst of the human traffic.

Walk through Nevizade and then turn right to walk back up towards Istiklal and observe the lovely Galatasaray High School on your left. With a long history dating back to 1481, Galatasaray’s famous graduates include Yunus Nadi Abalioglu, a renowned Turkish journalist and founder of the newspaper Cumhuriyet; Dr. Mehmet Serkan Apaydin, a world famous computer scientist and electrical engineer and Baris Manço, a Turkish singer, composer, television producer and celebrity, among others.

Just beyond Galatasaray High School is the Yapi Kredi Art Gallery and bookstore. Although the books are predominately in Turkish, the revolving array of artists coming through is always a treat to see.

Our mini-tour of Istiklal Caddesi ends here, though the street continues for another kilometer or so to Tunel, a lively, arts-y section of town well worth exploring.

Now we take you on a short journey into the Galatasaray neighborhood which encompasses French Street.  Make a right just after the high school where  you will see Ara Cafe hidden off to your right.  Inspired by Ara Güler (who also lives in the same building), arguably Turkey’s most famous photographer, it’s a nice place to have a salad or just coffee. Since it is always very busy, you will probably have to wait for a table, but it’s definitely worth the wait. The food and service is good and prices quite reasonable. A bit further down the road you can find the Goethe Institute, which provides German language studies and various cultural activities. Rather more important however, is the bakery, which prepares delicious German pastries.

If you’re more Gaullist then Teutonic however, then skip the bakery and take the first left. Immediately to your right, you will see a brightly decorated street closed to traffic. This was Cezayir Sokak, but is now known by its more Western and controversial name, Fransiz Sokagi (French Street). Opened to much fanfare in the summer of 2004 and containing 29 buildings and 43 places of business, the street was totally renovated by a team led by the architect Mehmet Taşdiken. Additionally supported by Turkish and French architects, the antique gas-powered street lamps adorning the street were sent over by the French government. French Street plays host to dozens of restaurants, cafes, art galleries, and boutiques. This pretty street is worth a stroll and can actually take one to a seemingly different and calmer universe than the chaos of Istiklal.  All the places have an interesting style, but some stand out.  Gitane, owned by famous Turkish designer Cemil Ipekçi, is not only a cafe but also a high-end hair salon and beauty spa. It’s a nice place to while away a couple of hours on an afternoon or listen to live music in the evenings. They take reservations and close when the last customer decides to leave!  Point Virgule is also another popular place people frequent. Located at the beginning of the street, they serve both Turkish and French dishes, and place tables outside on nice days. On colder days, the interior offers an array of romantic pictures framed with antique-style gold frames and is open until 2:00am.  For some real French cuisine however, check out the art deco style 100-person capacity La Vie, Le Regal, which also sells various types of tobacco and Turkish and French wines and liqueurs, and Cafe Miro, which offers French dishes and cheeses, all in the environment of the famous French artist’s pictures.  Also see Brasserie Levantine. Named for the Ottoman Turks originally from Italy, this cafe offers a Turkish and Mediterranean fusion cuisine and an art gallery on the first floor. 

After taking the plunge into French Street, check out a place right near it. The former owner of French Street hotspot Dilara’s Abracadabra, Dilara Erbay has moved her restaurant just a short distance away and renamed it to Cezayir.  It’s definitely worth a visit because the cuisine is exquisite and the high-ceilinged space with East Asian paintings on the wall are a treat to take in.  Erbay’s take on Turkish cuisine is by taking traditional Turkish dishes and providing her own eclectic contribution.  Ask about the Sufi communal pot. The latest see-and-be-seen addition to this up-an-coming neighborhood is Zoe restaurant.  Owned by the chef of the popular Susam Restaurant in Cihangir (which closed several years ago), information about Zoe remains elusive.  We do know that it is on the top floor of the Demirhan Apt. in Galatasaray and apparently has a stunning view of the city. The menu is a mix of Turkish and International cuisines.

We hope you’ve enjoyed our stroll down Istiklal.  Though in order to take in all that we’ve mentioned in a single afternoon you’d surely have to run!  Whether you’re a stroller or a speed walker, whether it’s rain or shine, you can always “feel the beat” on Istiklal and French Street.